I would also like to thank all of my friends that I made along the Sanctuary trail. Our group was one of the finest that I have ever had the privilege to travel with. I will never forget our wonderful moments together along the way, and I sincerely hope that we will have the opportunity to travel together again soon. (Even if it's just a person or two.)
(I need to especially thank Alexis for lugging my three-month old broken boots and like-new sleeping bag home for me! You are 'da bomb, girl! I will never forget you for you efforts, and I can't wait to hang out with you in Chi-town this summer!)
After a tremendous adventure on the Annapurna Circuit with Ryan, Craig and Jules, I decided to extend my trekking a few days further and set off for Ghorepani with Dilli a day after relaxing in Tatopani and its hot spring.
The trek to Ghorepani was one of the most difficult I could have imagined. Ascending 1,600 meters (5,250 feet) during the course of more than six hours. I could only imagine how difficult the ascend to the Thorong La would have been from Muktinath, especially given the altitude.
An exhausted Dilli and I arrived in Ghorepani around two o'clock and took in some food. We rested the remainder of the day, as we knew that another 300 meter climb awaited us early the next morning.
The steep climb to Poon Hill in the early morning hours the next day was not a difficult one, but with our legs be still tired from the day before, the 300 meter climb seemed more like 500 meters.
At last, we arrived on the scene, along with the hundreds of other tourists. The sky was absolutely clear as the sun rose to greet the magnificent mountains. Dilli and I climbed the tower to get a better view of the action.
Looking around, I could see many people that I had met along the way during our Circuit trek. I went down to greet a few when suddenly I ran into Nick, my good friend from Mukinath, who I, incidentally, had a difficult time placing where we had met, due to my intoxication and exhaustion after ascending, then descending the Thorong La to Muktinath.
Nick was planning to trek the Sanctuary trail as well, so I decided to join his entourage (he had a porter and a guide) and set off around 9am for Tadapani. (We tried to convince our friend Caroline to join us, but the trek from Tatopani to Ghorepani ended her attempt early.)
I had planned on taking over my bag again in Ghorepani, but I couldn't leave Dilli behind. He and I had had a absolutely fantastic time together on the Circuit and had become brothers. The journey to ABC had begun.
During the next few days, Nick and I would meet Alexis (from Chicago) and her guide Raj, a group of Israelis who had met in Pokhara and began traveling together, as well as J.P. and his wife, Natalie, from Quebec, Canada. Apart from Alexis, who Nick and I met on our first night on the trek in Tadapani, we met the others in Sinawa on day two and quickly became good friends, meeting up every night of our journey to spend quality time together. (We later met Tomer and Yuval, also from Israel, who, like the others, quickly became good friends of ours.)
Our journey from Sinawa took us from the subtropical regions of the valley and into some of the most scenic places in the world.
Words cannot possibly describe the feeling of being at Machapuchare Base Camp (MBC) with your friends and knowing the amazing views that await you when you wake... Only to be completely blown away by the scenery, even after you have spent the entire night envisioning the most beautiful place on earth you could imagine.
Being in the middle of Annapurna Base Camp (ABC), completely surrounded by the 6000, 7000, and 8000 meter peaks is simply indescribable. I can only say that I would wish everyone I know (and don't know) to be able to visit such a place. The view at sunrise is simply a breath- taking and humbling experience. Man can only help to feel irrelevant in such a place, knowing full well that nature is the supreme being.
I hope that you enjoy the photos below. I hope to include a more detailed description of my fantastic experience while on the Sanctuary trek in the near future.
Dilli and I started around 7am from Tatopani and reached Ghorepani more than six hours later, having not stopped for lunch along the way. I would challenge anyone to count the number of stairs on the trail. I think Dilli and I saw stairs in our dreams for the next few nights.
To his credit, the only complaining that heard from Dilli was a minor "Oh, my God!" as he reached a false summit to Ghorepani, only to find more stairs. He wasn't the only one remarking the same. Talk about a tough day!
Here Dhaulagari, the 7th highest peak in the world at 8,167 meters (26,795 feet) is pictured.
(A panoramic sequence follows.)
Needless to say, both Dilli and I were still sore from the trek the day before from Tatopani, but the sunrise on the mountains made the trip worthwhile!
(Annapurna South is closer to Poon Hill and, thus, it looks higher than Annapurna I.)
(Nick and I had "Sabotage" from the Beastie Boys in our heads before this photo was taken.)
(Incidentally, this is the same Nick that I met in Muktinath just a week prior on the Circuit. Also, I met Caroline briefly in Thorung Phedi-- she stayed at the same lodge as us.)
I had seen Grey Langurs for the first time while climbing above Bagarchhap on the Circuit, but I was unable to photograph them, as they left the scene in a hurry after we arrived. I was worried that I would never have that chance again... then this whole family played for us during breakfast. I wonderful way to start Day Two of our trek!
I took this photo from directly in front of my room. Nick and I decided to wake up and eat at 4:30 am, while our Israeli friends decided to sleep in.
As I woke up, I was beyond excited, as I could tell when I woke up that the weather was clear. How? It was much colder than when we went to bed. As I opened the door, I nearly lost all control of my body. The view from our guest house was simply incredible and absolutely beyond describable.
Dilli came to me within minutes with a HUGE smile on his face. Like me, he was beyond excited-- and I was SOOO happy to have him with me on our trek to ABC!
Here is a view of Machapuchare from mountain.
I cannot describe how much I LOVE ABC!!!
Being higher than the clouds is a wonderful feeling...
(The snowman was built by some boys we met in Tadapani.)
Boukreev died on Christmas Day, 1997 while attempting to climb Annapurna I.
Here is the memorial to him, one of the greatest climbers of his generation.
In the mountains, the guest houses have propane heaters (with live, open flame!) underneath the tables to keep everyone warm in the dining room. The tables come equipped with long blankets, which one uses to place over one's lap so that the heat warms one's legs. This table also came equipped with a laundry line so that people could dry their clothes as well!
We enjoyed the afternoon with whiskey and sugary tea! Yummy!
I took this photograph right before bed (8 pm). The sky had cleared after an afternoon storm, and allowed us to see the mountains via the moonlight as well as thousands of stars...
An absolutely gorgeous view.
My second favorite (after our trek from MBC to ABC) moment came on sunrise at ABC. Dilli was like a kid in a candy store as his eyes set themselves on the spectacular mountains surrounding us. He could hardly wait to climb the mountain high above ABC. Neither could I-- my friends were awaiting us!
I consider Dilli family after our fantastic three-week journey together. He is, without a doubt, one of the greatest men I have ever had the pleasure of meeting.
I met J.P. and his wife, Natalie, after Sinawa underway on the trek. A lengthy and wonderful conversation ensued and from it, hopefully, a long friendship.
J.P. and his wife are amazingly special people. It was astounding to me just how instantaneously our friendship started. It is rare to find such a connection while traveling, and I feel so blessed to have found it with J.P. and Natalie.
I plan on seeing them in July during my long layover in Montreal.
It's really hard to believe that a place like this exists on earth... even when you are there.
He won... even with my 20 kg (45 lb) pack!
It felt SOOO good to have everyone together again. It is very rare to have group that feels as much like family as did for such a short period of time while traveling.
(L-R): Nick, Alexis, Guy, Tomer, Yuval, Me, Yael, and Liron
(L-R): Alexis, Liron, Guy, Avi, Nick, Me, Yael, Yuval, and Tomer
(By the way, that is very old and miscolored U.S. flag on his head.)